When scarce American travelers set foot on the streets of Iran, they quickly gather a crowd that is pleasantly surprised to find Americans in their country and eager to try their English, even if only "hello," "very welcome'" and "goodbye." Eleven days in the Islamic Republic of Iran bring one face-to-face with friendly people, historical sights, impressive craftsmanship and more pictures of the ayatollahs Khomenei and Khamenei than a Hollywood opening night.

For the record, the U.S. and Iran have been at odds since the 1979 revolution overthrew the U.S.-friendly shah, overran the American Embassy and taunted President Carter by holding Americans hostage. After years of rule by staunch Islamic fundamentalist, two years ago Iranians elected moderate President Khatami.

Needing Western dollars, and ultimately needing Western investment and goodwill, the government has begun issuing visas to Americans, though mostly to British, Germans and Japanese. Tourist now exceed 50,000 annually and a cautious accommodation of tourism seems under way. In IranAir's Homa Hotel in Shiraz recently, we watched a workman sanding the plaster over the door where brass letters formerly proclaimed, "DOWN WITH USA."

Warm reception

Whatever the official government position, Iranians have a warm sense of hospitality and many have relatives in the U.S. It is estimated that Los Angels, sometimes referred to as "Terhrangelas," has more than 55,000 people of Iranian descent.

An American may feel unfamiliar surrounded by signs in mysterious-looking Farsi characters, but U.S. university T-shirts are standard on the streets, American swing music is common in restaurants, Chicago Bulls stickers adorn autos, school children want to trade "high fives" and try out their English language skills, and the average shopkeeper would rather have U.S. dollars than Iranian rials. A caller to the Minister of Culture and Islamic Guidance who was placed on hold to the background music of "Dixie," and a subsequent hold-call produced strains of "When the Saints Go Marching In."

English-language newspapers, available except in tourist hotels, seem duty-bound to find some daily quibble with the U.S. The headlines are often ominous-sounding, yet of little consequence, such as: "U.S. Threats Sing of Washington's Selfish, Oppressive Policies" (page one of the Teheran Times, Oct. 18,1999).

In major cities like Teheran (almost 15 million population), Shiraz and Isfahan, spectacular mosques, palaces and gardens fascinate even Americans who have seen Europe and the Far East. Outside the big cities, excellent highways channel traffic past miles of desert, plots of verdant farmland with John Deere tractors and herds of sheep and goats. Poorly advertised sites like the ruins of Perseplois - majestic, a stately shadow of former greatness dug out of the sand in the 1930s - intrigue the few tourist.

Persepolis

Persepolis was a 6th century B.C. summer palace of Persia kings until its destruction in 331 B.C. by Alexander the Great. Tall columns pierce the skyline and the story-telling stone carvings are still intact. The nearby tombs of Darius, Xerxes and Artaxerxes - mentioned in the Old Testament and well known to history - are hewn into rugged mountainsides.

Fascinating pueblo-like adobe Colo., and the American West. Visit and you will likely be invited into the homes of locals who want to share tea or pomegranates.

Caravan

The unusual is all around. Leaving Perseplois, a caravan of autos, cycles, and vans appears, one with a "Don't Forget God" sticker in English above the rear window. Our guide explains it is a band of nomads, Bedouins, who still tend flocks of sheep and goats, and move seasonally, much like their fathers centuries ago.

Celebrating a wedding, the small crowd on the plaza, bring out a jam box and begin dancing. The next night in Isfahan, when it's learned that a wedding celebration is in progress in our five-star hotel, the guide secures the sponsoring family's enthusiastic consent and American women (men are not invited) instantly become honored guests when the dancing begins and money is thrown in the air. When the tour bus needs fueling, the driver speaks to truck drivers in the ever present line awaiting an available pump. He explains he has American tourist on board, and is permitted to break in line. Another day, stopping in route for lunch in a small town - when much of Iran shuts down to observe siesta time - a casually well-dressed local asks if we are Americans.

He can't remember seeing Americans there before. In excellent English, he asks how we would contrast America and Iran and invites us in to his home to talk. On another occasion, in front of a Teheran restaurant, a woman and her child await our exit to ask where we are from, then she explains that she lives in San Francisco, but returns regularly to visit family.

In the carpet museum of Teheran, giggling teenage girls, impeccably-dressed in dark blue hejab for a class outing, shyly spy on our group, gradually confirm that we are Americans, and try some halting-English phrases before enthusiastically trying their English on us. We give them pencils and pens labeled "Alabama," and pose for pictures with our cameras and theirs.

On our afternoon tour, as the American tourists. From nowhere comes an armload of delicious pomegranates in an unexpected gesture of friendship.

Appeal for tourists

Post-revolutionary Iran has not taken seriously the appeal it holds for tourists, so many interesting sites are undeveloped or not officially open.

At small a community, Izad Khast, our guide showed us an old caravansari - a way-station similar to a stage coach stop in the American West. It provided a place of rest and refreshment for caravan travelers, their camels and other animals. This one was abandoned about 100 years ago, but has been half-preserved by the climate. It is no official tourist stop, but local bands of children, one or two dismounting their donkeys, some speaking English, eagerly guide us. They confidently stroll atop three-story parapets where they often play. Our visit ends in an invitation to have tea with a family. Nowhere was there a historical marker, a printed guide, or any indication of a special interest site.

Money

While Iran has suffered some inflation, a U.S. $100 bill will buy about 800,000 Iranian rials. U.S. dollar transactions are legal and the Iranian preference. Most shopkeepers have a cash drawer with about equal amounts of rials and dollars. Travel's checks are not used and credit cards are uncommon. Islamic law forbids charging interest and it has and it has taken creative interpretations to charge businessmen up to 24 percent (not interest, but something akin to interest) on loans, and pay up to 24 percent for a five-year certificate of deposit. The state newspaper says studies are under way to create "an Islamic credit card."

Americans notice heavy traffic at filling stations where gasoline sells for less than 25 cents per gallon. The gasoline sales power frenetic traffic patterns that rely as much on the horn as the brake. An Iranian taxi driver explains that in America we blow our horns to express anger, but in Iran a touch of the horn simply means, "here I am" or "watch out for me."

Dress Code

Women who travel to Iran submit a visa photo with their heads covered and must respect the hejab, the Islamic code that requires a blousy coat or tunic to conceal female features, a scarf or head-piece to cover the hair and neck, and long sleeves. While black is traditional, hints of fashion are evident, colorful scarves appear occasionally, and Gucci bags and DKNY initials are also seen. Though there is a national women's organization, Iranian females ride in the back of the bus, and the Teheran Airport has separate entrances for each sex. Iran's theoretical government respects the conservative arm of Islam,

yet it tolerates other religious expression. In Isfahan - an eight-hour drive from Teheran - there are 14 Christian churches, one synagogue and a Zoroastrian temple the government permits to operate. In seems the government does not like non-Muslims to attract attention, but if they carry out their ministry without headlines, they are left alone.

The streets of Iran hold many surprises - a boy carrying his pet rooster, a bazaar entrance with a chain hanging down to keep camels from entering, a fistfight over a fender-bender and Persian carpets, miniature paintings and decorated boxes in abundance at very low prices. Hot tea is the national drink and the teahouses of Iran are quaint places to explore, even if you do not want to linger over the "hubble-bubble," the water pipe that is the traditional Iranian smoke.

A U.S. trade embargo has been in place since 1995, and the State Department still cautions Americans traveling to Iran, but Birmingham travel agent Kings Travel Service said they had no trouble putting together the trip.

The only practical travel guide in English is the "Lonely Planet" series, which was even carried by the Iranian guides. Tourism is down to one-tenth what it was under the shah in the 1970s, but the government now has a policy that seems more accommodating. That could make many Americans eager to explore the less-traveled beauty and mystery of Iran.