Many cultural centers (farhangsaras) are now in operation in various neighborhoods of Tehran and other cities in Iran. But during our trip to Iran this past summer, we were only able to visit one such center in north Tehran, Niavaran Artistic Creation Foundation (NACF).

NACF is actually one of the oldest cultural centers in Tehran. The center actually dates to before the Islamic revolution. But it has gone through both name and management changes. The latest change has happened in 1378 when the center changed it's name from Niavaran Cultural Center to Niavaran Artistic Creation Foundation.

The center is located in a park-like setting across from the big and beautiful Niavaran park. Visitors are welcomed with a pleasant tree-lined walkway that goes from the entrance all the way to the end of the yard, with a water stream running in the center that flows into small pools along the way. The turquoise tiles decorating the stream and the ponds are very calming. I could sit there all day looking at them, that is if I first get rid of the fast-lane-loving silicon valley blood in me :-)

To the right of the path there is an open green space with some trees here and there. To the left are the buildings, the museum and the amphitheatre. Interesting art works are on display everywhere. These are mostly from the younger generation of Iranian artists. We don't know any of the artists, but their works are fascinating.

There are more interesting works inside the museum. These works are just one more evidence that the Iranian population is a vibrant one. The Iranian artists, like the filmmakers, writers, musicians, …, are looking at the world from many different angles and perspectives, and they are exploring new frontiers and experiencing with new ideas, with much success it seems.

Next we went to the Bookstore. Many interesting books, both in English and Persian, were on display. This is a great place to buy books, specially for our English-speaking friends. We pay about $100 for a stack of books. A big treasure bought for a small price, that is if you live in the United States!

We also checked the amphitheatre. A group of women were hard at work practicing there for an upcoming show. Theatrical shows and music performances are part of the activities of NACF. The list of past and upcoming performances was impressive.

And still another very interesting program of the center is their Friday Market. We were told that on Fridays student artists who have registered with the center can sell their works in the center's open market. So we decided to go back for another visit.

We went back on Friday. At the end of the yard, at a very nice spot, a group of about 30 artists, mostly young women, were selling their works. There were all sorts of work: pottery, paintings, craftwork, jewelry, and so on. Some of the works were very interesting, and this happened to be a good place to buy gifts.

The artists in general were very friendly and were enjoying a good time in a beautiful place. The only negative that we saw was lack of shoppers, at least while we were there. So, as one of the few shoppers there, we in a way had become the center of attraction :-)

Artists' Friday Market

We were told that some of the other cultural centers in Iran have similar programs that allow artists to sell their works. Considering the very healthy atmosphere that we observed at NACF's Friday Market, this is an effort worthy of praise.

Artist's display at the Friday Market

Our experience at the NACF was a very pleasant one. So much so that my wife went back there for a third visit. The people at the center were very nice and cordial, and the place was very well maintained. The only negative gesture came from one of the guards who was in a kiosk at the entrance. My wife was trying to take a picture of the landscape through the windows of the kiosk (but not of the people inside). The guard got angry and told her photography is not allowed at the center and yet she dares to take picture of the guards!

Artists enjoy a quiet lunch at the Friday Market

Even this reaction was somewhat amusing. There were certainly no signs forbidding photography in the center and we had asked the staff before taking pictures there. Later we were told that the kiosk is a thorny issue there and is a remnant from the past that operates outside the control of the center and they cannot get rid of! Ironically this kind of resembles the state of Iran's government. An elected body that has to share the power with un-elected power centers that just refuse to go away!

Artists' Friday Market

And of course Iran is a country of contrasts! Just across from the green compound of NACF, a group of young people were playing soccer on a dirt field. They didn't seem to mind of course. At least they had a field. Many of the children and youngsters in Iran play soccer on busy streets or narrow alleys. Some even play soccer during the graveyard shift! That's actually the best shift, since there are fewer cars in the streets!

And still around the corner was a nice bookstore. Next to the bookstore was a gallery featuring a photo exhibition called "The Street Children." The photos in the exhibition showed the many faces of the street children in Iran. Unfortunately every day these children have live performances in the streets of Tehran. These photos were just instances in the lives of these children.

All in all, our whole family enjoyed the visit to NACF, the gallery and Niavaran park. If you happen to visit Tehran, and if you enjoy art and cultural activities, it's highly recommended that you pay a visit to NACF and the surrounding.

Related Link:

Niavaran Artistic Creation Foundation: nacfiran.com